Exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park: Best Tips + Activities

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Podcast Episode Overview

We don’t like to rank national parks because we firmly believe that each one speaks to us all differently. However, there are some parks that end up being unexpected surprises and quickly turn into lifelong favorites. Because of that, we’re crowning Theodore Roosevelt National Park as one of ours. 

Each time we visit, it just gets better and better. And in this episode, we’re walking you through all three units of the park, all located in North Dakota, plus our favorite things to see, where to stop, and how we like to experience this hidden gem.

In this episode, we cover:

• How to add Theodore Roosevelt National Park to your South Dakota road trip
• The South Unit scenic loop drive and the best places to pull off for wildlife
• Why Wind Canyon Trail is a must-see at sunset
• Why the Elkhorn Ranch Unit is 100% worth the hour-and-a-half dirt road drive
• The North Unit and its 14-mile scenic drive
• The best overlooks in the park, including River Bend and Oxbow Overlook
• The Medora Musical and why it’s the thing to do in the gateway town
• How long to spend here, and why rushing this park takes away the magic

Your task for today: Which wildlife are you most excited to see in Theodore Roosevelt National Park: the wild horses, the rough-and-tumble bison, the very vocal prairie dogs, or something else? Tell us over on the @DirtInMyShoes Facebook or Instagram page!

Planning your own Theodore Roosevelt National Park adventure?

• 8 Things You Can’t Miss On Your First Visit to Theodore Roosevelt: https://www.dirtinmyshoes.com/8-things-cant-miss-first-visit-theodore-roosevelt-national-park/ 
• Episode 141:  Best Scenic Drives in the National Parks: https://www.dirtinmyshoes.com/best-scenic-drives-in-the-national-parks/ 
• Episode 37: Funny National Park Stories (Vol. 2): https://www.dirtinmyshoes.com/funny-stories-vol-2-hiking/ 
• Master Reservation List: https://www.dirtinmyshoes.com/list/ 
• National Parks Checklist: https://www.dirtinmyshoes.com/national-parks-checklist/ 
• Trip Packing List: https://www.dirtinmyshoes.com/pack/

Exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park: Best Tips + Activities

Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota is one of those places that surprises nearly every visitor: wild horses at golden hour, badlands formations twisted into shapes you couldn’t dream up, and a silence so complete you can actually hear the prairie dogs arguing with each other. 

We don’t like to pick favorites, but if we did, this park would be one of them. Each time we visit, it just gets better and better. 

In this episode of the Exploring the National Parks Podcast, we’re walking you through all three units of exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park — what to see, where to stop, and how to soak it all in without rushing anything. 

Where to Stay While Exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Medora, North Dakota, is going to be your best bet for lodging. It’s the gateway town right outside the South Unit, it’s adorable, and it’s as close as you can get to the park without being in the park. 

Medora has a genuinely fun Wild West vibe: cute shops, good souvenir hunting, candy stores, ice cream, and saloon-style restaurants that match the whole north-of-the-West feel of this area. We love walking the downtown stretch after a day in the park.

INSIDER TIP: 
If you can, plan your trip while the Medora Musical is happening. It’s an outdoor amphitheater show featuring original music about the West, North Dakota, and Teddy Roosevelt himself. 

You can also do the pitchfork fondue steak dinner beforehand, where they literally cook your steak on a pitchfork dipped in oil. It’s a whole experience, and we think it’s worth building one of your evenings around!

Start in the South Unit

The South Unit is the biggest unit, has the most to do, and sits right on the edge of Medora — just a few minutes from downtown. This is what most people picture when they think of exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park, and it earns every bit of that attention.

Visitor Center and Maltese Cross Cabin

Of course, you’ll want to make a stop at the visitor center before you arrive. But not for what you think. The real reason to linger here is the Maltese Cross Cabin. This is an actual cabin Theodore Roosevelt lived in, relocated and restored so you can walk through it and learn more about his time in North Dakota. 

The South Unit Scenic Loop Drive (36 Miles Round Trip)

The main scenic loop drive is 36 miles round trip, and it takes you through the heart of the South Unit. The road twists and turns through badland formations and is full of wildlife. 

From the very beginning of the loop, keep your eyes open for wildlife like: 

• Wild horses: Golden hour is the best time to go looking. Watching them run through that light with the badlands behind them is genuinely one of the most beautiful things we’ve seen in any national park!
• Bison: We saw bison rolling in the dirt here for the first time ever, even though we’d been to plenty of other parks. They are rough-and-tumble, and we love them for it.
• Prairie dog towns: You’ll pass through a couple of them along the drive, and they’re marked on the map as darker brown areas. The ones here are active and vocal, and if you’re patient, you might catch one doing the full-body-fling bark where they throw their arms back. (It’s harder to photograph than you’d think. We’ve tried. Many times.)

Wind Canyon Trail

This is our favorite hike in the entire park, and it’s only 0.4 miles round-trip. The trail takes you to the edge of a cliff overlooking the Little Missouri River, with badlands and flatlands stretching out as far as you can see in every direction.

We love doing this one at sunset. The colors that come out at golden hour here are incredible, and this is where we once watched a giant bison herd stampede across the river valley below. One of the best wildlife moments we’ve ever had anywhere.

Peaceful Valley Ranch

Along the loop, you’ll pass Peaceful Valley Ranch. There’s not much to do there, but we like to stop and take the short trail down to the Little Missouri River because it gives us a nice moment to just sit on the banks and breathe.

Other South Unit Stops Worth Knowing About

• Buck Hill: A short, steep climb that gives you something close to a 360-degree view of the park. Good for getting a sense of the full expanse of the badlands.
• Painted Canyon Visitor Center: This is along the interstate and feels a bit like a scenic rest area, but the overlook and the nature trail here are genuinely pretty. You get more of the colored badlands here.
• Petrified Forest Area: This one takes more effort to get to, but if you’re up for it, there are petrified trees that are different from others we’ve seen and are worth looking at. Bring everything you need, including plenty of water, because there are no services out here.

The Elkhorn Ranch Unit: For the Teddy Roosevelt Devotees

This unit is not for everyone. It takes about an hour and a half to reach Elkhorn Ranch from Medora on dirt roads; there are no buildings left standing, and it can be tricky to find. You’ll have to ask at the visitor center for driving directions.

But if you want to understand why this park carries the name it does, this is the place. The Elkhorn Ranch was Theodore Roosevelt’s main ranch during his years in North Dakota — his home base, the place he returned to after grief, where he worked through the hardest parts of his life and found peace in the land. 

The significance is enormous even when you’re standing somewhere that looks like a whole lot of nothing.

INSIDER TIP: 
Ask at the South Unit visitor center for a map and driving directions to Elkhorn Ranch.

The North Unit: The Quiet One (And Maybe Our Favorite)

The North Unit is about an hour’s drive north of the South Unit and sits in Central Time (the other two units are Mountain Time). Because the drive deters most people, the North Unit stays beautifully quiet.

The main feature here is the 14-Mile Scenic Drive — 28 miles out and back, since it’s not a loop. Drive around, stop when something catches your eye, and take a moment to soak it all in. 

There’s a campground up here, but very little else in terms of amenities, so bring everything you need.

Little Mo Nature Trail

The Little Missouri River — affectionately called the Little Mo — runs through this unit, and the Little Mo Nature Trail takes you right down to it. We always take the longer way there because it’s peaceful, pretty, and a good way to feel close to the river that was so central to Roosevelt’s time here.

Caprock Coulee Nature Trail

This one winds between badlands formations in a way that feels like you’re tucked into a small canyon. The colors and striations in the rock are beautiful, and it doesn’t usually get crowded with other visitors. From the same parking area, you can connect to the Buckhorn Trail, which winds out to another prairie dog town.

River Bend Overlook

One of our favorite overlooks in the entire park. The river is right below you here, and there’s an old Civilian Conservation Corps structure nearby — another layer of history woven into this already historically rich place.

Oxbow Overlook (and Sperati Point)

We love a good oxbow, and this one delivers. Continue along the South Achenbach Trail for about a mile, instead of stopping at the overlook, and you’ll reach Sperati Point. The views from out there are something we think about long after the trip is over. Highly recommend!

Adding Theodore Roosevelt to a South Dakota Road Trip

After exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park several times, we’ve concluded that three days is the sweet spot. One day per unit, with evenings in Medora for the Musical, a sunset golden hour drive back into the South Unit for wild horses, or just a slow dinner with your feet up.

If you’re already planning a South Dakota trip — Badlands, Wind Cave, or Mount Rushmore — you’re closer to the park than you might think. We think it’s one of the best add-ons in the region.

INSIDER TIP: 
Add Devils Tower in Wyoming on your way north, then continue up to Medora. It’s roughly four to five hours from the Rapid City area, and it rounds out the trip with a park most people didn’t even know was on the map. 

But we warn you…resist the urge to rush this park. The whole appeal of exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park is its unhurried feeling. If you try to squeeze it into a single day, you lose the thing that makes it special.

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Links Mentioned in This Podcast Episode:

• Theodore Roosevelt Can’t Miss Spots
• Theodore Roosevelt National Park
• Wind Canyon Trail
• Maltese Cross Cabin
• Elkhorn Ranch Unit
• North Unit
• Episode 37: Funny National Park Stories (Vol. 2)

While You’re in the Area:

• The Ultimate Badlands Trip Planning Guide
• The Ultimate Wind Cave Trip Planning Guide
• Devils Tower Can’t Miss Spots